Alexander Pirounis

TEXT BY MARK CHO, PHOTO BY MARK CHO

What He's wearing
Ascot Chang x The Armoury Safari Jacket
The Armoury shirt MTM
Salvatore Ambrosi bespoke trousers
Carmina tassel loafers
http://shop.thearmoury.com/carmina-uetam-80285-loafer-suede-natural

Commentary
As an Asian person, I always notice the very strong guiding influence of family and especially parents. Many of my friends work for their family businesses or work in the same fields as their parents; for instance doctors having children who also become doctors. I think children inherit some of the passions of their parents and it guides them towards certain types of work as a result. 

My colleague Alex is half Italian, half Greek, fluent in multiple languages. His father has worked in the clothing industry for many years and is passionate about men's clothing. Alex inherited that same passion for men's clothing but also brings his own strengths. I am always impressed by his confidence, which comes very naturally from him. When promoting a new style to a customer, he presents it in a positive and confident way, which in turn gives the customer the confidence to try it.

Alex's style is that of a sophisticated, modern Italian. Through experiencing many cultures, he truly understands the value of a subtle, clasisc look. He uses a very classic colour palette and he likes classic details like high-rise trousers, pleats and vent-less jackets. He updates it with a slim, soft silhouette.

Takahiro Osaki

PHOTO BY MARK CHO, TEXT BY Takahiro Osaki / MARK CHO

Intro

Taka has been with Liverano for ten years now and is the most developed of Liverano's proteges. I have great respect for Taka, having the drive to emigrate to Italy, keeping himself open to opportunities as they came along and eventually becoming Liverano's right hand man. Watching Taka work is always interesting for me. Our role as salespeople is not to act purely sell but to guide and advise. Sometimes we must say no to a customer's requests because we believe it will compromise the end result. I find Taka handles these situations especially well, both convincing a customer of his viewpoint and preventing any awkwardness, by clearly showing he wants what's in his customer's best interests. 

- Mark

Taka:

1. Can you talk about how you got started with Liverano?
（リヴェラーノで働き始めた経緯を教えてください）

13 years ago, I met Antonio while accompanying my friend as an interpreter to Liverano to order a suit. I was a student at a language school in Florence back then. 

I went back to Liverano with my friend for a fitting the 2nd time, and Antonio said to me: "You have got nice eyes, why don't you come and work for me?"

It was a bit of a surprise to be recruited like that, so I requested to come in and observe how they work first. At the end of the 1st week of observation, Antonio told me "there's nothing more you can see, if you want to join me now, come join, otherwise don't come back again". I have made up my mind at the spot and started as a sales person there. 

 

2. You have been with Liverano for more than ten years now, how do you think you have grown and developed?
（もうリヴェラーノで働き始めてから１０年以上たちますが、あなた自身はどのように成長・変化したと思いますか？）

This is my 12th year working at Liverano now. 

At that time, I mainly dressed in used clothing and trendy garments. Since I was a shoe pattern maker before, I have learnt classical designs and makes, had interest in classic style but never dressed myself in it before. 

When I started working at Liverano, there were many things to learn from Antonio when dressing in a suit, for example, what colours to wear in which season, which ties and pocket squares combination should be used etc. 

Now, I work with Antonio to find suitable cloths for customers, or direct making Liverano original scarves etc. 

Antonio is truly warm-hearted person. He always told me "If you have an opinion, let me know, don't hesitate". However, being a typical Japanese, I was not certain if it is really allowed to give my honest opinion to my boss. After about spending 3 years with him, it did not concern me any more. Nowadays we are very close like family, I can tell him anything, it is not merely a business relationship.

Also, when I started working here, our clients were mostly Japanese and Italians. Since we have launched a shop-in-shop in Tokyo, we started to see more customers from greater Asia. After we have started working with The Armoury in 2010, we have even more International customers that support us continuously. I always get so much inspiration from meeting our customers. 

 

3. How would you describe the Liverano look?
（リヴェラーノ・ルックをどのように表現しますか？） 

We present a "modern and coherent classic style". It's very simple, and can suit any generation. 

Justin Chang

TEXT BY MARK CHO AND JUSTIN CHANG, PHOTO BY MARK CHO

No telling of Hong Kong's tailoring history could be complete without mentioning Ascot Chang, Hong Kong's most widely respected shirt maker. AC was the first Hong Kong tailor to travel to the USA for trunk shows in the 60’s and the first to set up shop in New York. Their business now spans three generations of Changs and several shops in multiple countries, selling bespoke shirts made at their facility in Hung Hom to a consistently high standard. I use the term "consistent" with a great deal of respect as it is a difficult thing to achieve. I find great comfort in being able to receive something that is precisely made and able to be precisely re-made if ever necessary. It makes my Ascot Chang shirts seem immortal because if one is ever ruined, it can be replaced by a new shirt made exactly as before.

I was fortunate enough to get to know the Chang family first as friends when The Armoury was still a single, tiny, new shop. Justin, a few years younger than I, graduated university in New York and spent several years at their New York shop learning the retail side of the business before returning to Hong Kong to be closer to the production side, which he is passionate about. Over the years, we have produced several interesting items with Ascot Chang that we have since become quite well known for. Justin has always been the lynchpin between The Armoury and Ascot Chang, helping us to prototype and coordinate these special orders.

The most popular item we have collaborated on is our polo shirt, worn by Justin in the photograph. It is made in Italian cotton pique cloth with a shirt style spread collar. Smart casual is such a common dress code and yet so confusing because of its ambiguity. Our favourite look for smart casual would be our polo shirt in white, paired with a navy blazer, cotton chinos and a pair of suede loafers. Our focus was on making a collar that stood up well around the neck and could be worn under a jacket. Hence our collar has a tall collar band, allowing it to surround the neck like a normal dress shirt. The collar shape is a spread style because under a jacket its appearance is neat and not overly casual. Without a jacket, it also wears well as the collar will spread from the neck, framing the head and shoulders. 

A few questions to Justin:

  1. What’s it like working for your family and how does it feel to be part of a long line of shirtmakers?

There's still alot for me to learn, especially on the technical/tailoring side of things, but I've been enjoying my work very much. I've been very fortunate in that my father is quite receptive to new ideas and I've been afforded the freedom to pursue interesting projects such as the collaboration we have with Mark and The Armoury.

As we are still quite a small company, I take on quite a few different roles at Ascot Chang: Business Development, Marketing, Data Analysis, Sales...but I find that at the end of the day, I am most passionate about the product. Whether it's solving tailoring problems, sourcing fabric, working on designs or even just sitting next to our tailors and watching, I am happiest when I am working on the product.

  1. Tell an interesting story related to you and Ascot Chang.

I find that sometimes, when it comes to buying fabric for our inventory, my father takes more risks than me. There are times when he wants to buy 5-6 colors in one fabric, and I have to look at the numbers and tell him that he can only pick 3-4. Surely this situation is reversed for many father-son partnerships?

  1. What are your favourite shirt cloths?

I like Alumo's 120s 2-ply "Supraluxe" alot, to me it is the perfect balance between smooth hand-feel and substance in the "body" of the fabric.

Some fabrics can be very silky smooth, but too flimsy and light. Others can be quite hard-wearing, but have a slightly coarse feeling, especially when new. The Alumo Supraluxe is a great balance between then two.

Alan See

Text by Mark Cho, Photo by Mark Cho

Alan See is the co-founder of The Armoury, we met 8 years ago through our mutual tailor, WW Chan, and have been friends ever since. To me, the only things about Alan that has changed over the years is his haircut. Our style has developed and become more refined but he has always kept the same easygoing, friendly personality that connected us in the first place. I think he is one of the best examples of why looking good is not just wearing good clothing, but being relaxed and having a positive aura. 

Alan is more into a classic Italian look, which can be seen in the very typical coordination of cream jacket with grey trousers. I think he has re-interpreted it in a very interesting way by using very casual elements in that classic colour scheme, such as linen trousers and espadrilles instead of shoes. 

One unusual aspect of The Armoury is we have two shops in Hong Kong that are within 3 minutes walking distance from each other. As a result, we are often walking outside back and forth between the two shops to see our customers. This is the busiest intersection in Central, Hong Kong, which we use every day. Most people tend to walk only on the striped crosswalk so it was easy to get a clear space around Alan to take the photo. Since the traffic light is not very long, I had to take this photo very quickly. I got lucky and we did it on the second change of lights, done in 5 minutes!

Gianluca Migliarotti

Text by Mark Cho, Photo by Mark Cho

Myself and our buying team are in Italy attending Pitti and seeing our suppliers. During Pitti, we do some of our buying and product development as well as catch up on what our colleagues in the industry are up to. It is quite an efficient trip for our business because of the concentration of people we can meet and work with in a short period of time. 

Originally I wanted to photograph my colleagues; Alan See or Alex Pirounis, but right after I finished their portraits while we were at Pitti, I bumped into one of my best friends, Gianluca Migliarotti, and so I photographed him as well.. As I only see him a few times a year, I decided to feature his portrait instead. 

Gianluca is a film director who specializes in documentaries. Among his other work, he has made a few important films about fashion, such as O'Mast, I Colori Di Antonio and E Poi Ce Napoli. I met him very early on, during the first year of The Armoury. I am a big fan of his personal style, which I think comes through in his work. He is from Naples and I think of him as the modern Neapolitan gentleman. His personality is passionate but also very easy to engage with. When I watch his documentaries, I always notice his ability to connect with his subject in a very natural way. In his clothing, he wears suits when the occasion calls for it, but he will typically wear sport jackets and trousers in a way that is elegant and natural, without being too casual or showy either. Much of his clothing is bespoke, with some of his father's old bespoke mixed in. I am quite proud to say he also buys some pieces from The Armoury, like our denim jeans, as well as bespoke shirts from our favourite shirtmaker in Hong Kong, Ascot Chang.

The Armoury denim
http://shop.thearmoury.com/categories/denim

Ascot Chang
http://www.ascotchang.com/en/home

Carmina string loafers
http://shop.thearmoury.com/categories/footwear/carmina-uetam-80285-loafer-suede-brown

Mark Cho

Text by Mark Cho, Photo by Jon Huang

What I'm wearing

Commentary

I pass through NYC once a month to check in at The Armoury NYC. When I'm here, I brief the team on new developments, meet customers and try to make improvements to the shop, which is always a work in progress. I shot this portrait on my apartment's terrace. What I'm wearing, I would consider Anglophile Style, in that it's English without being completely from England. The jacket I'm wearing is called a "Teba", it is based on the English hunting jacket used in the countryside during the early 20th century that eventually went out of fashion in England. It was resurrected in the 70's by a Spanish aristocrat, the Count of Teba, who made some changes to it, making it more appropriate for use in the city as well as the countryside. I think the Spaniards and the English have similar understated tastes, but I think the Spanish colour palette is a little stronger and more saturated, probably because of the weather. I am a big fan of the shirts and ties that Michael Hill of Drake's designs and I think it complements the Teba well. Navy grenadine is a Drake's classic and against a complicated shirt pattern with texture, it creates a more harmonious balance compared with a plain silk foulard, which can be too plain for casual use. I always enjoy wearing The Armoury's military chino, which we based on a vintage pair of trousers brought in by one of our good customers. It has full, comfortable legs and it is my favourite trousers for wearing when travelling. I am wearing one of my favourite designs of all time, a very early Reverso from 1936, when the companies Jaeger and LeCoultre first merged to become Jaeger Lecoultre. I find the quality a little bit delicate so I do not wear it very often but I am very happy to own such an important piece of watchmaking history. 

Naoyuki Komatsu

PHOTO BY MARK CHO / Text by Naoyuki Komatsu and Mark Cho

Intro

Personally, I think Komatsu-san makes the finest leather bags in the world, bar none. The bags are bespoke, made by the hands of Komatsu-san and his two apprentices. Every seam, long or short is done by hand. Even the luxury giants cannot match that level of handcraft. Komatsu-san trained in both leather tanning and bag making, which allows him unparalleled insight into his materials. He selects only the finest for every creation. 

- Mark

I make bags by hand in my workshop everyday. Since I normally get so much leather dust on myself, my regular outfit is a workwear. It is very exciting for me to wear a suit and meet customers when I have trunkshows at The Armoury.

This suit by Antonio Liverano is a treasure for me. I can feel so much emotions on this suit as well as the highest level of hand work and aesthetics that always trying to achieve the best.  I love fun and beautiful products like this. Signor Liverano taught me so many things such as his super high standards as an artisan. I highly respect him and appreciate his numerous advises. 

This portrait was taken when I had my first trunk show at The Armoury NYC. Working with The Armoury gives us precious opportunity to have overseas customers our bags, and I learn so much from this highly enjoyable experience. I look forward to seeing the welcoming and warm-hearted customers and staff members in this exciting city again. 

- Naoyuki Komatsu

Zach Jobe

Text by Zach Jobe, Photo by Mark Cho

What I'm wearing

  • Orazio Luciano made-to-measure double-breasted jacket in vintage cloth from Orazio Luciano's archives
  • Salvatore Ambrosi bespoke trousers in Holland & Sherry Crispaire
  • Saint Crispin's made-to-measure loafers in shell cordovan with metal toe taps
  • Liverano & Liverano made-to-measure spread collar shirt in Riva fabric
  • Drake's Navy Striped Tie (8cm)
  • Simonnot Godard shoestring pocket square
  • Oliver Peoples eyeglasses

Commentary

Well fitting trousers have always been difficult for me to find, but this pair, as well as my other trousers from Ambrosi, are the first trousers I've ever owned that have truly fit me well in every possible way. True to my particular style, I paired these trousers with a bold, heavy double-breasted jacket that injected some visual interest and complexity into an otherwise sedate combination.  The shell cordovan loafers from Saint Crispin's add textural sophistication.

Anecdotes
Looking through the vintage selection from Orazio Luciano during a trunk show, I was immediately drawn to this fabric given it's heft, color and pattern, as it reminded me in the best possible way of my grandmother's sofa — elegant and enduring.

What do you do?
After a decade-long career in law I am honored to pursue a personal passion at The Armoury.  I wear a number of hats, from managing our North American business and corporate operations, to sharing our value-driven and individualistic approach to classic menswear with The Armoury's spirited artisans, craftspeople, and international clientele in New York and around the world through traveling trunk shows.

Jake Grantham

Text by Jake Grantham, Photo by Amanda Kho

What I'm Wearing

  • Ciccio Bespoke Suit
  • Belgian Loafers
  • Liverano Shirt
  • Drake's Hank
  • Sorley Tie
  • Persol Sunglasses

Commentary

I find Ciccio to be one of the most interesting contemporary bespoke tailors. Ueki-san produces garments that adhere to a distinctive and unique house style. His combination of traditional Neapolitan aesthetics with a hyper-soft construction and clean Japanese construction makes for a suit that reflects both his Neapolitan and Japanese influence. Ueki's relative young age is also impressive, with a refined house aesthetic resonating with me due to it's relaxed feel, clean lines and traditional proportions. 

Working for The Armoury also has equally afforded me a personal admiration for Ueki as a supplier and friend. It is important that you respect a tailor's work as much as their personality and ethos. 

I am wearing a classic navy that is worn with the extended front dart, ventless jacket, generous lapel and overall relaxed fit. Ciccio's soft lapel, low buttoning, and minimal construction resonates with my personal style as I like to dress classically yet imprecise and relaxed. 

The knit tie, black suede Belgian loafers and pink shirt further this look, put together and somber yet louche with a degree of informality with a classic navy suit. 

Where are you?

I am standing at the top of the IFC building in Hong Kong. It is a beautiful spot that lets you take in the harbor of Hong Kong - a short walk from our stores, it is a suitably Hong Kong oasis in the middle of Central. 

What do you do?

Having worked for The Armoury for 3 years and previously at Drake's - I am part of our creative team working to develop product and cloth with our roster of suppliers. Additionally I work to buy both ready to wear garments and accessories as well as curating fabrics for our ready-to-wear and made-to-measure offerings. I can be found in our Hong Kong stores assisting customers as well as conducting made-to-measure fittings and trunk shows. 

Mark Cho

Text by Mark Cho, Portrait by Tina Jui / Mark Cho

What you're wearing

Commentary

Bespoke tailoring is an extremely personal thing, I think it reflects the relationship between the customer and the cutter. Antonio Liverano is like family to me, I have learned so much from him. When I wear suits that he made for me, I feel like he understands me like family and it brings me a lot of joy to wear his work. 

I wear a lot of Drake's shirts. Although they don't have the very fine, handmade feeling of Italian shirts, the quality is still very good and I think they have a wonderful, sturdy British style instead, which more suits my taste. 

This year's spring summer Drake's grenadine with spots is great and the first time I have seen grenadine done this way. 

Our shop's lapel chains are always a great accessory, they are very small in the lapel so it's a subtle accessory but the exposed chain underneath makes it more interesting. I always wear our Lotus model because I love eating renkon!

I shot this image on the roof of the Drake's factory in London. If you're ever in town, you can request a tour from their office. It's one of my favourite places in the world. 

What do you do?

I am one of the founders of The Armoury, I started it with Alan See almost five years ago now. I work on all aspects of the business. I am sometimes on the shop floor but these days I spend much more time working on our back office. As our company has grown, it has become more and more important to stay organized. I am in charge of the design of all our stores. Since the store is like my second home, I try to include a lot of my own personal items in it. 

 

Taylor Jackson

Text by Taylor Jackson, Photo by Zach Jobe

What I'm wearing

  • Ring Jacket Suit in their exclusive navy flannel
  • Carmina brown braided tassel loafer
  • Ascot Chang light blue stripe spread collar in Thomas Mason fabric
  • Drake's Navy and Gold Repp Stripe tie
  • Simonnot Godard white hemstich pocket square
  • Nacky Made custom glasses in matte tortoise with gold hinges and dinosaur arms.

Commentary

Like most men, navy is my favorite color to wear, because it's very easy and goes with pretty much anything. Patterned shirts are great for jazzing up an otherwise simple outfit, and the contrasting size of the stripes on the shirt versus that of the tie complement each other well. I chose the Carmina loafers simply because they are the most comfortable shoes that I own.

Anecdotes

I typically don't wear socks with loafers or any shoes for that matter, but when I met Antonio Liverano he suggested that I should wear navy socks (always). I gave it a shot and have become quite fond of the classic elegant look it brings to my wardrobe.

Intro

I love working at The Armoury; I moved 1500 miles from Oklahoma City for this position. My main responsibilities revolve around the sales floor, focusing on client interaction and experience, sales, and merchandising.

Jeff Hilliard

Text by Jeff HIlliard, Photo by Zach Jobe

What I'm wearing

  • Ring Jacket Double Breasted Jacket in Harrison's charcoal chalkstripe flannel with matching Ambrosi single pleat trousers
  • Carmina black galosh cap toes with metal toe taps
  • Ascot Chang custom spread collar shirt in Thomas Mason fabric
  • Drake's Navy Grenadine (8cm)
  • Lock & Co. Lenny Cap
  • Simonnot Godard white rapsody pocket square

Commentary

Around the time that I placed the order for this suit I had been looking at old pictures of Buster Keaton.  Buster was one of the silliest people in Hollywood but he wore very serious clothing, particularly dark double breasted suits with subtle texture.  This was my nod to Buster and I paired it with equally sober accessories like black galosh shoes and a navy grenadine.  The pants are a bit fuller at the thigh and knee with a strong taper.  Although it sounds a little boring, I actually received quite a reaction - maybe it's the hat!

Anecdotes

The tie that I'm wearing in this picture is 6 years old and was my very first Drake's tie.  I've worn it so much that the slip stitch has broken and it's stretched over 5 inches.  It reminds me of my initial interest in classically tailored clothing, so I will never get rid of it.

What do you do?

I'm very lucky to work for The Armoury, it is my dream job.  My main responsibilities are to make sure that our clients have an enjoyable experience online and to continually improve our content and online customer satisfaction.  That means my days are spent on anything from taking pictures to answering questions to idea generation.  It's always a new experience each day.